That night, the next day, and the next night were spent resting at the fjellstue. Early on the following morning the party set off again.

After a while, the track dipped sharply downhill for some distance, until we came to the first trees I had seen since leaving Bossekop, a forest of snow-laden pines through which we drove some time. It was very still in the woods; we were sheltered from the snow and the reindeer made good progress. There was no sound except the tinkle of their bells and the curious clicking noise caused by their hoofs when raised from the ground, the inner parts striking against each other.

My reindeer was tied now to the back of the pulka driven by per’s friend. Soon after entering the forest the young Lapp evidently cheered by the thought that we were nearing our journey’s end, started to joik.

This strange and ancient from of song is heard only among the Lapps. The words are usually composed on the spur of the moment, and express the feelings of the singer, or tell of what he sees.

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A Lapp will often sing in praise of this reindeer and dogs, or of the warmth of the son. At other times he will composed what sounded a very fine joik in honor of the governor of his district. When the words were turned into Norwegian, they proved to be all about that gentleman’s bald head!

Each Lapp has his own special joik, by which his friend may recognize him when he calls to them from after, for sounds travel easily over the vast silent snowfields.

As I listened to the quaint singsong about. Perhaps it was about his reindeer and their prowess. It may have had a meaning something like this:

Voia, voia, voia, nana, nana, nana,the finest reindeer in the land running like flock of birds,

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Voia, voia, voia, nana, nana, nana,big,high-legged,

When they start to run,

Voia, voia, voia, nana, nana, nana, then they spring till you can see nothing but smoke, then they spring like the boiling falls.

Voia, voia, voia, nana, nana, nana.

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It was long after dark when, about 7.30, we drew up at my destination, having travelled about one hundred and twelve English miles since leaving Boss kop. My fur cloak, hood and gloves were stiff with frozen snow, but I had kept quite warm owing to the lack of wind; and except for feeling very tired I was none the worse for my journey.

The Karasjok fjellstue was a very comfortable one. There was a good stove, the place was clean and warm, and after an excellent supper Isank between the sheets of my little bed. I was soon lost in a dream, in which I found myself riding triumphantly through the air on a beautiful white reindeer, with an escort of Lapps ringing bells and joking!