Tips for the Selection and Maintenance of Spa Tub and Sauna

Spas and tubs massage bathers with a flow of hot, moving water. The support equipment for spas and tubs is virtually identical, but subtle differences exist between the systems.

Spas are either in-ground or portable. The older and more traditional type is sunken in the ground or placed in a deck. The portable spa is more like a home appliance; it doesn’t have to be permanently installed and comes as a complete unit, ready to plug into a 110 volt outlet or wired to a 220 volt circuit. Support equipment comes as part of its package.

Selecting an in-ground spa means choosing between a factory molded shell made of fiberglass-reinforce acrylic or one of the new plastics that does not require a fiberglass backing or a more expensive, longer-lasting shell made of concrete.

The majority of the manufactured shells are made of acrylic reinforced with fiberglass, but high-impact plastics are becoming more common. Gelcoat is rarely used any longer, but many older spas are made of this material.

Lightweight, low cost, and easily mass-produced in one-piece shapes, the early fiberglass shells were carried to a site and professionally installed. However, the fiberglass was only the shell; the tub needed a lining. The earliest standard lining for fiberglass was gelcoat, a polymer resin that was sprayed onto the spa shell mould.

When hardened, the gelcoat was removed from the mould and sprayed with fibreglass to give it strength. Problems resulted from the use of gelocoat, including high water temperatures that caused the surface to blister as trapped. Air bubbles expanded.

Colours also tended to fade over time unless protected by periodic waxing; and delamination or the separation of gelcoat from the fiberglass resulted when highly chlorinated water seeped through the semipros gelcoat lining.

Acrylic spas shell gradually replaces gelcoat. Dense, nonporous, and as glossy as porcelain, acrylic provides a variety of colours from earth tones to simulated nabbing. Although superior to gelcoat, acrylic over time will nick, scratch, and fade. The marbled coloration of acrylic serves more than a decorative purpose; it also camouflages blemishes.

An important variable with acrylic is its sheet thickness prior to molding. In portables, 3 mm. thicknesses are quite common, but the best spas have a 5 mm. lining.

To make a shell, the acryl sheet is heated until pliable, then vacuum-pulled into counterparts and result in the quickest recovery (the briefest wait while the spa and tub water heats up). However, the gas heater has to be vented and a gas line runs to it.

Small spas, such as the portables, can be heated with 110 volt electric heaters; large spas require 220volt heaters to speed up recovery. A 220volt heater has to be hard wired rather than plugged in as is typical with the 110 volt model; this results in a greater installation cost but also may result in greater safety from electrical shock to guests or employees who might be injured while carelessly plugging in or unplugging the heater.

Controls should be evaluated as to their convenience and function. Manual controls to engage the pump, to start up the blower, or to turn on the underwater lighting should be mounted on the rim of the spa or on the edge of the surrounding deck.

These controls might be air switches. Automatic controls should activate the heating equipment when the temperature falls below a preset level and activate the pump and filtration equipment periodically during a 24 hour period to achieve desired levels of water quality.

Covering a spa or tub when not in use should be considered. Protective covers are typically rigid or flexible. Rigid covers that are made of foam and covered with vinyl have the longest life and the best isolative properties.

They typically last from five to ten years, and their insulation value ranges from R-10 to R-14. Many such covers are hinged in the middle for easy removal. As the foam cover is used it absorbs moisture, however, so it. Initial weight of some 10 to 12 kg. pounds dramatically increases.

To determine the quality of a rigid cover, consider the thickness of the vinyl and the quality of the backing. Cotton backing should be avoided because it does not stand up to the chemical evaporation from the water. The sticking at seams and handles should be examined. Double or triple stitching and heavy-duty nylon zippers provide the longest service.

A 5 cm foam thickness is generally adequate for interior use, but the thickness should be increased to a minimum of 7.5 cm of outdoor use. Metal C-channels should be provided along the hinge, giving the foam extra rigidity.

The rigid cover should also be provided with tie-downs or other locking devices to secure it against wind or unauthorized use.

Flexible covers can be used if security and energy savings are not principal concerns. Such covers include simple bubble-plastic, which floats on the water, and other similar materials that to varying degrees can use the sun to keep the water warm.

Maintenance of tub, sauna & spas:

Maintenance of a tub or sauna is very similar to maintenance of a pool. Water chemistry, sanitation, periodic cleaning, and servicing the mechanical system are important procedures. Water chemistry involves balancing pH, total alkalinity, and calcium hardness.

Sanitation is commonly achieved by adding chlorine or bromine to the water. In addition, periodically the water should be super chlorinated or shocked. This kills algae and helps control the no filterable residue left by perspiration, Oils, and hairsprays.

Periodic cleaning of the skimmer basket and filter and of the spa or tub surface with a mild, nonabrasive detergent or with a special cleanser from a reputable water-care product line is important.

However, when a hot tub is drained for cleaning, it should not stand empty or water for more than a day or two so that the wood staves do not twist and cup as they dry, distorting the fit of the original coopering.

In areas with a high water table, be careful when draining an in ground spa to prevent the hydrostatic pressure of ground water from popping the spa out of the ground.

As noted with a pool, a periodic lubrication of the pump is in order, along with an inspection of the heater system.

Saunas:

Selection:

The sauna is an insulated wooden room heated from 160 °F to 194°F (71 °C to 90 °C). The heat, usually very dry with less than 30 percent humidity, deep- cleanses the skin through induced perspiration, stimulates circulation, and reduces muscular tension.

Several factors should be considered when selecting a sauna: (1) size, (ii) shape, (iii) location, (iv) floor, (v) wiring, (vi) insulation, (vii) doors, windows, (viii) surfaces, (ix) benches, (x) lighting, (xi) ventilation, and (xii) stoves.

(i) Saunas range in size from small 90 cm by 90 cm by 210 cm high cubicles to large 360 cm by 480 by-270 cm. high rooms. Typically 75 cm of space should be allowed for each bather.

(ii) The most popular shapes are square or rectangular, which allows for maximum use of bench space. Octagonal, round, and other shapes do not offer the same flexibility with bench space.

(iii) Because the use of a sauna involves a heating and cooling process, the sauna should be installed near a dressing room and shower. In addition, consider the proximity of the location to plumbing, electric wiring (220- volt as well as 110-volt), or gas lines, depending on the type of stove selected.

(iv) The floor is the coolest spot in a heated sauna. Floors should be waterproof and slightly sloped toward drains so that water can be used in the sauna by the occupants and when the sauna is being cleaned. Although concrete floors are common, they must be surfaced to prevent slippage when they become wet.

Wooden duckboards (racks of wood strips with spaces between) can be used over concrete floors because they are attractive, simple to install, and easily removed when the sauna needs cleaning.

Clear heartwoods of white pine, Poplar, or Cedar should be used for the duckboards because such woods remain comfortable to touch event in a heated sauna, resist splintering, and have no knotholes or pitch pockets that can cause burns.

(v) Wiring must adhere to electrical codes and standards and must hold up under 194 °F (90°C) or higher temperatures, resist moist conditions, and are located in dry areas behind insulation.

(vi) Adequate insulation keeps heat in and the cost of operating the stove down. Saunas are often insulated with foil-faced fiberglass bats with an R value of at least 11. The foil side should face in, creating a partial vapour barrier to prevent moisture from collection inside the walls.

(vii) Doors and windows should be constructed to minimize heat loss. Doors must be hung carefully to accommodate the shrinking and swelling that occur with changes in temperature, swing outward away from the sauna, and never be fitted with locks or latches that might trap an occupant.

Special perching doors can be purchased from a sauna manufacturer that should include three hinges (10 cm brass spring-loaded butts), ball bulled or roller catches for latching the doors without locking it and wooden handles.

Windows are often installed in a sauna to relieve the claustrophobic effects a sauna can create. Windows should be double-glazed or double-pane tempered glass with air space between, and hermetically sealed to prevent moisture from collecting inside the air space. Metal frames or hardware that can cause burns should be avoided.

(viii) Surface interior walls and ceilings should be lined with high-grade woods that are kiln-dried to resist shrinking, cupping, and warping and are milled smooth for comfort. Such woods include redwood, Western red cedar, Alaskan yellow cedar, Eastern white pine, and Sugar pine.

Cedar is particularly known for its aroma, which minimizes perspiration odours. Other materials, such as tile, vinyl, fabric, or metal, can create a fire hazard or become too hot to touch.

(ix) Benches should be constructed of clear heartwoods of white pine, poplar, or cedar because they remain comfortable to touch, resist splintering, and have no knotholes or pitch pockets that can cause burns.

The size and shape of the sauna determine bench configuration. Smaller saunas have two levels of benches arranged in an L-shape in order to fully use space. Benches in larger saunas can be arranged in tiered rows along one wall, in U-shaped configurations.

The best bench is slated to encourage air circulation, prevent perspiration from accumulating, and facilitate cleaning. Any nails used in construction should be countersunk and filled to keep nail heads away from the occupant.

(x) Lighting fixtures should be vapour-sealed to prevent moisture from coming in contact with the bulb and socket; and lighting switches should be located outside the sauna, since they typically cannot withstand the inside heat and moisture.

(xi) Ventilation standards are established by local code. However, proper ventilation is important to the successful sauna installation because it provides oxygen for the occupants, for venting stale air, and for operating certain types of stoves. Intake vents should be located in a wall behind the stove and near the floor. The outlet should be adjustable to allow for control of the amount of air leaving the room.

(xii) Sauna stoves are either gas, electric, or wood-burning. The stove contains a quantity of sauna rock that when heated provides the proper balance of heat and humidity. Rocks must be of the igneous granite variety. Sedimentary rocks can crack, crumble, and even explode under the pressure of high heat. Sauna rocks last approximately five years before they must be replaced. A sauna stove might hold as few as 22.5 kg of rocks or as many as 54 kg.

(a) Typically, gas stoves are more efficient for large saunas because they are designed to accommodate more sauna rocks and they heat sauna rocks faster and hotter than electric units, making for an even heat and humidity. Gas stoves should be approved, installed with the manufacturer- recommended wall-to-stove clearance and separated from the occupant of the sauna with a wooden rail or fencing.

(b) Electric stoves should be installed so there is wall-to stove clearance as suggested by the manufacturer. Occupants of the sauna should be protected from the stove by a wooden railing or fencing. Essentially, one kilowatt of power will be necessary for every 1.2 sum of room space.

An electric sauna stove includes electric heat elements, similar to a heating element on a residential model electric stove, in a container surrounded by sauna rocks. On the most effective electric stoves, the rocks come into direct contact with the elements rather than sitting in a slotted tray above the heating elements where they typically do not absorb adequate heat.

The elements and rocks should be encased in a container constructed of at least two layers of noncorrosive metal, with an air space between the layers. Successive layers reduce heat loss from the sides and front of the stove. The outer layer should be stainless steel or baked enamel, which helps keep the surface from becoming excessively hot.

(c) Several sauna manufacturers sell prefabricated wood-burning stoves, which are constructed of corrosive-resistant metal.

The principal disadvantage of the wood stove is having an adequate fuel supply. It takes a wood stove considerably longer to properly heat a sauna, and every fire leaves ashes that must be removed periodically. Typically. 22 kilograms of good, dense wood is required to heat a small to average- size sauna. In addition, the installation requirements may become more expensive because of potential fire hazard.

Maintenance slapstick of sauna:

On a daily basis, the interior surfaces of the sauna should be damp wiped with a liquid detergent to remove perspiration strains and odours from the wood. Duckboards covering a concrete floor should be removed and the floor scrubbed.

Other floor surfaces should be mopped daily and scrubbed weekly with a nonabrasive cleaner. In additions, a thorough cleaning of any adjoining lounges and shower and should take place daily.

The sauna should be ventilated daily so the wood surfaces in the room, the floor, and duckboards can dry. Sauna rocks have to be replaced. In addition, the burner on a gas stove has to be adjusted, and the heating elements on an electric stove should be inspected for proper heating

Safety in Sauna:

Careful use of a sauna is important, and notification of its hazards should be provided to potential users. For instance, guests should be advised not to use the sauna without permission of their physician if they have high blood pressure, respiratory ailments, heart trouble, circulatory problems, or chronic illness such as diabetes or epilepsy or if they are taking antibiotics, tranquilizers, or stimulants.

They also should delay taking a sauna at least one hour after a large meal. The following guidelines on how to use the sauna should be posted:

1. Briefly shower with warm water and soap.

2. Towel dry.

3. Enter the sauna and relax for 5 to 10 minutes.

4. Cool off with a shower or swim.

5. Relax outside the sauna for 10 to 20 minutes.

6. Increase the humidity in the sauna.