The major purpose of Swimming pool is to provide recreational opportunities for guests. This amenity can be especially attractive to children, and to parents who wish to keep their children amused. The opportunity to swim may also appeal to the traveler who has been cramped in a car or airplane for hours.
Interestingly, pools may also appeal to those who do not use them; they apparently serve as a symbol of the level of amenities that a lodging facility offers. Guests may choose to stay at a lodging facility that has a pool even though they have no intention of using it.
The swimming pool is basically a large permanent basin, in or out of doors that can hold water. The best pools are constructed of concrete, reinforced with steel rods, and plastered with water-resistant plaster. Less expensive pools may have fiberglass or steel sidewalls.
Pools with vinyl or plastic liners are even less expensive but are, of course, less durable. These flexible materials do, however, have an advantage over the more rigid concrete; since they can expand and contract, they need not be drained for winter since freezing will not damage the pool walls.
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Surrounding the pool basin is the deck, which is also frequently constructed of concrete. The deck finish should be skid proof. Ceramic tile or indoor-outdoor carpeting might also be used for deck construction.
Beneath the concrete of the pool basin is a system of pipes, which is a miniature version of the larger water system. Pumps are required to keep the water constantly circulating. The circulating water is filtered to remove material suspended in the water.
Filters are generally containers of sand, gravel, or both through which the water is pumped; sometimes layers of successively coarser material are used. Di- atomaceous earth, which is also used for filtration, comes from the skeletal remains of microscopic prehistoric animals (the animals were diatoms).
Although diatomaceous earth cleans the water faster & better than other materials it has a shorter life than sand and may require more pump pressure to force the water through the filter cartridge.
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The capacity of the filter may be measured in liter per minute per square m. of filter or by the number of hours required to “turn over” the water content of the entire pool.
The filters must be cleaned from time to time. This process can be done whenever the pool has operated a certain number of hours or on the basis of a visual inspection. In the cleaning process, water is simply forced backward through the filter (“backwashing)” until the water runs clear.
Water from the pool can be used for this process, but if this water has already been heated and chemically treated, it may be less expensive to use water from another source. The efficiency of the filter may be increased by adding a chemical that forms an even finer screen than the sand; this chemical (frequently alum) is called a ‘filter aid.”
A water heater for the swimming pool is optional. When the swimming season is short or when the hotel wishes to provide a perceived high level of service, pool water will be heated.
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(i) Radiant heat also can be used to heat pool water. The radiant heat system must be installed during pool construction. Copper tubes are installed in parallel at the bottom of the pool and then enclosed within the cement structure of the pool.
A heater, similar to the direct fire, is used to heat water to be circulated through the copper tubes by a circulating pump. Radiant heat has a higher initial cost but a somewhat lower maintenance cost because of slower scale build-up in the heater tubes.
(ii) Solar-heat systems are also available for swimming pools. Thus far, such systems have proven to be relatively low in efficiency and high in cost. To be effective at all times, solar heating systems must have sunshine during the heating cycle.
Indeed, some energy-conscious local authorities may not allow any other type of swimming pool water heating. Like other water heaters, a thermostat will usually be provided to keep the water temperature stable; SOT is a common setting.
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For outdoor pools floating insulation may help control some of the substantial heating costs; such insulation need not be removed while the pool is being used since it is easily brushed aside by swimmers. Some of the devices described here are illustrated.
Safety is always a matter of concern since swimming pools occasion their own Particular hazards. The accidents most likely to occur around a pool are drowning, slip and falls, and cuts. These may be exacerbated by the presence of children, inebriation, “horseplay” or rowdy behavior, and bare feet. Perhaps the best way to minimize this hazard is to have a trained lifeguard on duty during pool would be helpful.
The bed of the pool should have a gentle slope of 1 in 20 starting from the shallow end. The driving end will have a greater bed slope; the minimum free board should be kept as 30 cm.
Although a diving board is attractive to some pool users, it does increase the risk of injury and may be omitted especially in indoor or smaller pools.
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A semiprivate area for lounging or sunbathing can also be useful. Shallow pool depth (possible only when diving boards are absent), especially in one area where children might play (a separate wading pool is even better), not only save on construction and operating costs but may also help prevent accidents.
Clearly pasted and impartially enforced rules should help not only to avoid accidents but also to limit liability awards if guests are injured while breaking these rules.
The use of story foam of soft plastic containers rather than china, glass, or hard plastic in the pool area should minimize the number of cuts suffered by barefooted pool users. Finally, the maintenance of bacteria-free water, as described below, should help avoid the spread of disease via water borne bacteria.
Swimming pool maintenance is mainly a matter of cleaning. The water surface of an outdoor pool must be cleaned of leaves and insects; the pool walls and bottom should be cleaned of sediment and slime and, as described above, the filters must be cleaned.
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This cleaning may help reduce hazards, but its main purpose is aesthetic. To control bacteria, algae (microscopic plants), and pH (acidity or alkalinity), chemicals need to be added carefully. This need, in turn, generates another maintenance procedure; water testing.
The most commonly added chemical is chlorine, which is available in powder, tablet, liquid and compressed gas form. In concentrated form chlorine is a deadly poison so it must be stored, handled, and applied very carefully. The need to test and add chemicals to swimming pool water generates yet another maintenance procedure: record keeping.
These records may be required by the local public health department; even if they are not, they can help in estimating chemical supply and labour requirements. If life guards carry out these procedures, their jobs will be somewhat more productive than they otherwise would be.
For swimming pool four systems are used:
(i) The action of emptying, cleaning and refilling of the pool are carried out at certain interval.
(ii) Periodical addition of a disinfectant such as chlorine compound for water. Water is changed less frequently.
(iii) The continuous circulation of water through purification plant
(iv)The pool is filled with pure water and the water is continuously circulated by pump during bathing hours.
CHEMICAL TREATMENT OF SWIMMING POOL WATER:
The chemical treatment of Swimming pool water involves understanding disinfection and acid-based chemistry, chlorine, bromine, and iodine are frequently used to disinfect swimming-pool water. Table 4.4 lists some typical pool water problems and typical maintenance responses.
Chlorine is the most common disinfectant of Swimming pool water. When chlorine is added to water, two acids are formed-hypo chlorous acid (HCL) and hydrochloric acid (HCL). Although hydrochloric acid is considered to be a useless by-product, hypochlorous acid in its molecular 6r ionized form is a bactericide. A free residual of 0.4 part per million of chlorine available per 1 million ounces of Swimming pool water at all times.
After the chlorine in hypochlorous acid has oxidized organic matter and some inorganic substances, it reacts with ammonia to form compounds called chlorates. If more chlorine is added to the water, the total residual chlorine continues to rise until the concentration reaches a point that forces the reaction with ammonia to go rapidly to completion.
The point at which the residual suddenly drops is called the breakpoint. When enough chlorine is added to pass the breakpoint, all combined chlorine compounds disappear, eye irritation potential and chlorine odor disappear, and the chlorine that remains in the water is all in the Free State.
The breakpoint occurs at different concentrations in different waters. Super chlorination usually results in exceeding the breakpoint.
Nearly all tests for residual chlorine in swimming-pool water are accomplished with a calorimeter, a device that compares colours of solutions with colour standards prepared in a laboratory. The most common test for residual chlorine is the orthotolidine test. It is based on the fact that a clear, organic solution called orthorolidine turns
1. Store the reagent out of direct sunlight in a cool area.
2. Wash hands thoroughly before conducting a test.
3. Fill a test vial to the mark and add the amount of orthotolidine recommended (usually about 1.0 ml from a marked dropper).
4. Mix and immediately (within 10 seconds) place the test vial in the test kit next to the colour standards. (If the reading is made within 10 seconds. It will be a fair approximation of the free residual chlorine in the sample in ppm.)
5. Read the concentration of the colour standard it matches.
6. Set the sample in a dark place for five minutes and then take a second reading. The second reading will be the total residual chlorine in the sample, including both free and combined chlorine.
Because turbidity of pool waters, time lapse in taking the reading on the water sample, dirty hands and the presence of substances like iron nitrates, or manganese in water can produce a false reading, several other tests Palin method might be used as an alternative to the orthotolidine test.
Such tests include the
(i) Palin method (ii) Aqua. Check method.
(i) The Palin method involves the use of an organic compound called deathly- p-phenylene-diamine (D-P-D) as the colour-producing reagent. The reagent is manufactured as four small tablets. One tablet is used for testing free residual, another for monochloramine, a third for dichloramine, and a fourth for total free and combined residual.
The test for free chlorine is performed by dropping a designated tablet into a test vial of pool water, and comparing the resultant colour with prepared standards.
(ii) Aqua Check is a trade name for a plastic strip about 2.5 cm by 7.5 cm in size. The strip has two pads-one containing a reagent for testing free chlorine and another for testing pH. The strip is immersed in the pool for approximately 15 seconds and removed.
The resulting lavender colour is compared with a colour chart printed on the box containing the plastic strips. Since colour develop only in the presence of free chlorine, it is completely unaffected by the presence of chloramines of other combined forms of chlorine. Approximately 30 seconds after the test strip is removed from the water pH can be read.
This method of analysing chlorine residual is more accurate than others when high combined chlorine residuals are present. However, it is not reliable when cyanurates are used for chlorination.
Electronic controls are also available that negate the need for testing chlorine residuals. Completely automated electronic sensors are available that continuously monitor the free residual chlorine concentration and control the addition of chlorine to correct deficiencies.
Approximately 1.3 ounces of pure, gaseous chlorine in 10,000 gallons of after will provide one part per million (ppm); approximately two ounces of calcium chlorite will provide one ppm; and approximately one cup of liquid sodium chlorite solution per 10,000 gallons of water will equal one ppm.
(iii) Chlorinated (iso) cyanurates can be used as disinfectants in certain circumstances. Sodium dichloroisocyanurate is typically hand-fed to pool water at the rate of two ounces per 10,000 gallons. Trichioroisocyanurate should not be placed directly into pool water but placed in the pool skimmer or a feeder. When a chlorinated isocyanurate is used, cyanuric acid has to be added during the pool season. 25 to 30 ppm of cyanuric acid should be maintained.
(iv) When bromine is used as a disinfecting chemical, care should be taken to ensure that only the solid white organic complex is utilized. Although more expensive than liquid bromine, it is a much safer, less volatile chemical than liquid bromine. As with chlorine, state and local codes especially acceptable bromine residual. However, a total bromine residual between 1.0 and 2.0 ppm is generally required.
Since bromamines are effective bactericides, the total bromine residual is tested, rather than the free bromine residual. Orthotolidine reacts with bromine in the same manner as it does with chlorine. However, special colour standards must be used, and additional time must be allowed for colour development.
(v) Bacteriological tests indicate that free iodine is most effective at approximately 0.8 ppm. However, since the pool should contain a bank of available iodine in its potassium iodide form of about 0.4 ppm, the total iodine concentration is 1.2 ppm. Above 2.0 ppm. Green colour will appear in the water & bather safety can be impaired as the residual increases above 5.0 ppm.
Free iodine residual can be tested using orthotolidine. To test for free iodine residual, a drop of mercuric chloride reagent is added to 25 ml of pool water and mixed thoroughly. A single ml of orthorolidine is added to a test kit vial and the sample of pool water containing mercuric chloride is added to the vial. The colour is compared with specified colour standards.
It should be noted that mercuric chloride is a poison and never should be allowed to come in contact with food, hands, or mouths. Because of the hazards associated with swimming pool chemicals, considerable caution must be exercised their handling. Table 4.5 shows selected safety procedures that should be followed with various chemicals.
Acid-base pool chemistry involves the management of pH and total alkalinity. Water is a chemical compound that ionizes to produce hydrogen ions and hydroxy 1 ns. A base is a compound gust ionizes to produce an excess of hydroxyl ions. When water ionizes, it produces an equal number of hydrogen and hydroxy ions, is a neutral compound-neither acid nor base.
Swimming pools must maintain a pH established by state or local code. However, a pH value between 7.2 and 8.2 is generally specified. The pH of pool water affects bacterial rate of kill as pH is raised. Disinfectant decreases in effectiveness); eye irritation, with less eye irritation when pH balance is maintained; corrosion of pipes and deterioration of mortar, with a low pH creating a corrosive water condition; algae growth, increasing growth with a low pH.
Alkaline compounds such as soda ash raise pH, and sodium bisulfate or muriatic acid effectively lower pH. Testing pH involves adding a small amount of an appropriate solution to a sample of pool water and comparing the resulting colour with a colour standard. As previously mentioned, the product Auqa Check is one means of testing pH; another method uses phenol red.
The phenol red method involves filling a vial with pool water to a specified mark (usually 10 ml) and adding the specified amount of phenol red (usually 1 ml or one tablet). The solution is mixed and compared with colour standards.
The most effective method of raising total alkalinity without a great effect on PH is the addition of sodium bicarbonate. Total alkalinity can be lowered by repeated small dose of sodium bisulfate or muriatic acid. Testing for total alkalinity, s often best handled by a laboratory.
However, a small commercial test kit is available that uses a combination colour indicator composed of bromcresol green and methyl red. An exact quantity of pool water is mixed with the indicator to produce a green colour in the presence of alkalinity.
Sulphuric acid reagent is then added, drop by drop, from a special dropper until the alkalinity is neutralized and red colour appears. Total alkalinity is calculated from the number of drops of acid required.
Pumps and motors:
Components of a pump that should be included in the maintenance program are the shaft seal, mechanical seal, impeller shimming, strainer basket, and bearings. The shaft seal packing should be lubricated every four hours of operation, and dripping from the back of the shaft must be continuously watched and controlled by taking up on the packing nuts to maintain it at several drops per minute.
When the packing gland has been drawn up fully and no more adjustment is available, it is then necessary to remove the packing gland, withdraw all of the old packing, and repacking accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
Typically, no maintenance is required of mechanical seals during their operation; however, mechanical seals should not be run dry for extended periods during operation because the faces will overheat and fail.
When liquid begins to run out the back of a pump fitted with a mechanical seal, this is an indication that the seal faces have failed either due to wear, thermal cracking, or damage due to abrasives. The leak will continue to increase until the pump no longer functions. Thus, when the leak is detected, the seal should be targeted for replacement.
Impellers in a centrifugal pump are either open or closed. The blades of a closed impeller are surrounded on both sides by a cover plate should. Open impellers have a should on only one side with blades fully exposed on the other side. An open impeller must be shimmed so that the blades operate as close to the casing or diffuser as possible without touching. The further away the impeller is located, the poorer the performance of the pump.
Strainers should be opened at least weekly for inspection. If the strainer basket is plugged. It offers great resistance to the flow of liquid to the pump and can quickly cause cavitations. Several extra strainer baskets should be available so that the baskets can be dried and cleaned with a stiff wire brush.
Pumps and motors of lower horsepower have prelubricated and sealed bearings so that no additional lubrication can or should be provided. If the bearings are unsealed, supplemental lubrication is required. Such lubrication should follow the manufacturer’s instructions that are located on the unit and generally is required every three to six months. In most cases units are provided with a grease fitting and a drain plug.
Chemical feeders:
The type of chemical feeder depends on the disinfectant being used. Feeders are of following variety, positive displacement (hypochlorinator), pot-type, and dry feeders. Because of the hazards associated with chlorine gas, the chlorinator should be serviced by a certified technician recommended by the manufacturer of the device.
Positive displacement feeders or hypo chlorinators need regular onsite maintenance. The most common problem associated with a hypo chlorinator is clogged lines due to chemical deposits. Therefore, on a daily basis with clear water and the strainer connection on side brushed and cleaned to prevent clogging.
Semimonthly the valves either important parts of the hypo chlorinator should be brushed with a stiff treated with an acid solution to remove chemical deposits. In addition, can malfunction because of a leaking piston or diaphragm; thus, proper the action of the piston or replacement of the diaphragm might be required.
Since valve seats, diaphragms, and connective hose eventually fail, such via placement of parts or kits should be purchased in advance from the manufacturer. Rap The pump of a positive displacement feeder may require periodic lubrication. Manufacturer’s instructions should be followed.
Principal maintenance of the pot-type feeder involves flushing lines and valves with clear water prevent clogging. Periodically it may become necessary to flush with acid or alkali, depending on the compound being fed.
Dry feeder maintenance centers on the worm gear, chain drive, and paddle wheel or piston. Powder, dust, or granule? Find their way into the drive mechanism and must be removed before they cause too much friction or resistance. Manufacturer’s instructions also should be followed for purposes of lubrication.
Filters:
Filters require a periodic cleaning, called back washing. Back washing of rapid-pressure sand filters should take place when the difference in pressure between the influent pressure gauge and the effluent pressure gauge is in the range of 0.35 to 0.49 kg/cm2. The filter then should be backwashed at the rate of 15 gallons per square foot per minute for about five minutes or until the backwash water appears clear for two minutes.
High-rate sand filters should be backwashed when the differential pressure reaches 0.31 to 0.35. kg/cm2. When such a pressure differential occurs, dirt will have penetrated the sand to a depth of 15 to 25 cm. Back wash is necessary as this pressure increase for about two to four minutes at the same flow rate as the filtering process.
Pressure diatomite filters are usually backwashed when the influent and effluent pressure differential is in the range of 1.75 to 3.5 kg/cm2. Periodically, the elements of a diatomite filter should be removed and spray cleaned.
Flow meters are either variable area flow or mercury manometer. Maintenance consists primarily of keeping the glass & clean and the connecting tubes free of dirt particles that interfere with the operation. Typically, such units can be removed and cleaned without stopping the main water flow.
Valves should be opened through their entire operating range to prevent corrosion and dirt from sealing them. Occasionally the valve stem packing gland may require tightening or repacking to prevent leakage.
Heater:
Maintenance of a pool heater includes heater input, temperature control, flow or pressure switch, high-limit switch, and filters. A regulator that is built in or separate controls the input to the burners and combustion chamber of a gas fired heater. A manometer can be used to check the flow of gas, and the flows can the adjusted following manufacturer’s instructions.
“The temperature control should be checked for accuracy of calibration and recalibrated or indexed if the desired temperature cannot be calibrated.
The flow or pressure switch is the primary operating switch in a pool heating system. It is closed and opened by the flow or pressure of the circulating pool water in the outlet line from the filter.
If this control tends to open (breaking the heaters operating circuits) when the circulating pump is operating, the pressure switch tubing could be clogged, the filter could be clogged and need backwashing, or the control might be defective.
A high-limit switch should be checked for setting (130 °F to 135 °F).
Underwater lighting:
Underwater lighting is either wet-niche or dry-niche. Wet- niche lights are mounted in a recess in the pool wall and are replaced by lifting them out of the niche and pulling them up onto the deck, but it is usually necessary to get into the water to take the light from the niche.
Since the lens must be removed for revamping, the lens gasket should be replaced each time the lens is opened. Because a watertight seal is necessary, it is important to immerse the light in a bucket of water on the pool deck to check the seal for leakage, before returning it to it he niche.
Remember, because the wet-niche light is a sealed unit, it depends on this surrounding pool water for cooling and can break or burn out if lit only for a few seconds out of water. It also is important to reinstall the lens in exactly the same position so that the directional ridges on the lens deflect the light in the desired direction.
Dry-niche lights are mounted in holes that extend completely through the pool wall. The lens seals the niche against breakage and is mounted permanently. Dry- niche lights should be serviced from a tunnel beneath the deck and outside the pool wall.
Because dry-niche lights are air-cooled, it is extremely important to replace a burned-out bulb with one of proper size. An oversized bulb can result in heating the lens until it cracks and floods the service tunnel and connecting areas.
Algae control:
These plant forms are brought into the pool by the wind, with bathers, and with make-up water. If uncontrolled, they grow abundantly in the presence of sunlight. They are found in the free-floating and clinging varieties; the clinging type embeds itself into pores and concrete and is more resistant to treatment.
If untreated, algae can increase chlorine demand, turbidity, pool accidents, bacterial growth, and odour problems. Algae require carbon dioxide in order to manufacture food. Thus in the process to removing carbon dioxide from water, there is a definite increase in the pH. This may be seen in a radical jump in pH (7.5 to 8.9) in several hours, before there is any noticeable growth.
Algae control can be accomplished by routine chlorination or maintaining a free residual chlorine in the pool at all times; super chlorination or increasing the free chlorine residual to 10 ppm during no swimming hours; maintaining pool water temperatures of less than 80 °F; and using algaecides. Pool and pool area. The loss of water through cracks in a pool can amount to a considerable volume.
Special hydraulic cement compounds can be used to patch small to medium- sized cracks. Tar and asphalt fillers should not be used because they are not attractive and will extrude into the pool.
If a pool is located in an area with a high water table, water should be left in the pool at all times to prevent hydrostatic pressure from causing cracks in the surface, or hydrostatic pressure relief valves should be installed in the pool on construction to relieve underground water pressure and allow the pool to be drained in the off season.
The pool also should be maintained free from visible sediment. Such maintenance generally involves the daily use of brushes or suction cleaners. Brushing debris from the shallow to deep end drain is cost effective only if the pool is small, it is brushed daily, and the water recirculation and treatment equipment is adequate.
Suction cleaning can be accomplished by a portable pump and motor that is rolled along the pool walk, or by a recirculation pump with a suction line that attaches to pool-wall fittings about 20 cm below the water surface.
Water from suction cleaning should be discharged to waste. However, if sedimentation is slight and the pool bottom is cleaned daily; such water can be passed through the filter.
Maintenance of pool cleaners consists of keeping them unclogged by emptying the collection bags or lint strainers and handling the hoses and vacuum heads with care. Rubber wheels on certain models occasionally need to be replaced. Storing vacuum hoses out of the sun without sharp bends or creases extends their usable life.
Periodically, a pool will have to be drained for effective cleaning to take place. Plaster pools, once drained, can be cleaned by scrubbing with a dilute solution of muriatic acid. Acid washing must be done by persons wearing protective rubber apparel, using rubber buckets and stiff-bristle scrub brushes with handles.
Scrubbing should begin as soon as the pool is partially empty so that the walls do not dry out. Fresh water is necessary for rinsing. In cases where black algae exist, acid washing may have to be supplemented by washing the infested areas with a paste of calcium hypochlorite or 15 percent sodium hypochlorite.
It should be noted that after repeated acid washes, a plaster finish will become severely eroded or pitted. This accelerates the problem of scale or algae because it provides a suit face more conducive to their growth.
A more recent development in acid washing involves the use of high-pressure pumps to clean the plaster or paint. Stained or scaled plaster pools also can be cleaned by using hand sanders and numerous discs.
Off-season protection:
The extent of off-season maintenance depends on the climatic conditions of the area. In high-temperature areas, water level, chlorination. pH, and alkalinity can be managed similarly to the operating season. However, as temperatures begin to decrease, greater protection must be provided to weathering.
Freezing and thawing can cause expansion of moisture in the walls of a concrete pool, which leads to chipping of paint and surface concrete or plaster. In addition ground frost causes upheaval of the earth, which can crack concrete pools or cause bulges in steel walls or bottoms.
When doubt exists about the ability of the pool walls to resist the expansion of ice, it is advisable to procure several plastic jugs each weighted with about a 450 gm. of pea gravel and strong on a line in the pool around the perimeter to provide for surface expansion, Lifeline anchors can be used for positioning.
Water should not be left in pipes leading to the pool inlets if freezing is expected to reach that depth. Water left in the pool must be lowered to below inlet level or the inlets plugged to allow pipes to remain empty.
Each filter should be thoroughly and completely backwashed and drained. With sand filters, the top layer of sand should be agitated and inspected. If dirt, calcification, or mud ball formations are found, the filter sand should be chemically or mechanically cleaned.
Diatomite filters should be cleaned and left open for the season. The filter elements should be stored indoors, and the open tank covered lightly to exclude dirt.
If heaters are not to be used, they may be drained or the aqua state set for 40 °F. Oil-burning units with heat exchangers should have the electronic starting generators removed and stored in a dry area away from chemicals. The direct-fire units, gas or oil, should be serviced to ensure that full water flow may be circulated during the freezing period.
Chlorinators or hypo chlorinators should be removed from the system, cleaned, repaired, and stored, dry and ready for reinstallation. Chemical feed pots and tanks should be emptied. Cleaned, and dried. Any excess chlorine gas tanks should be returned to the distributor.
Liquid hypochlorite should be discarded (and added to the pool if water is to be left there). Dry hypochlorite should be rightly covered and stored securely.
The pool test kits should be cleaned, dried, and protected from freezing. Generally, all test reagents should be discarded and a reorder list established for spring.
Hair strainers or recirculation lines and vacuum cleaner lines should be drained. Pump primers and impeller casing drains should be left open. Remove fuses or shut off circuit breakers from the pump motor circuits.
Deck equipment, such as handrails and ladders should be cleaned, oiled, and removed from the pool area; Diving boards should be checked and stored out of the weather.